Hello, today finally my measuring microphone of Audio System came. I immediately got into the car with it and a laptop. I then set everything up and connected as it is described in the magazines of “AutoHifi”. So, now I wanted to make the first measurement. I also ran the pink noise and always led the microphone from one ear to the other. Now comes my problem. In the instruction is that you can quietly read the system properly. This is not possible with me, however, as soon as I turn the volume higher than 6 (quickly quiet), a red light bar appears immediately in the program practice where “**REDUCE INPUT!** ” stands. What is this, perhaps on the laptop? Is already a little older and has only 1000Mhz. I first connected the Mirko to the small amplifier which was there and then went from there into the microphone input from the laptop. Unfortunately the laptop does not have an extra line-in. of course I also connected to the cigarette lighter as it says in the instructions. Would be nice if you could help there, so that I might be able to measure correctly tomorrow. MfG, Dirk
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ABS rule error
Salve…. My ABS controls absolutely next to it …. at low speed the pedal can be pressed briefly, without any braking effect – however with clear control noises (no pulsating pedal) – you press more firmly – so to say over a clear pressure point – you place a full brake …. So I checked the sensors – resistance measurement with standing wheel – and determined the following values: Left back: 1,095 Ohm Right back: 1,085 Left front: 1,099 Right front: 1,10 4 I’ve already read various threads about ABS – but I don’t know how to interpret the values… So now the price question: Which one is in the bucket…. Thanks Bernd
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Signal from the engine running !?
Signal from the engine running !? Is there a signal in the Audi 80 b4 that the engine is running ? I would like to pick up with my carpc so that the start of the engine stops automatically when the engine is on !? is that possible ? a friend meant many times over speed meter that the one detectable signal gives in the form of 1 volt or something Oo (have an automatic, have no speed indicator Oo for that ne giant clock Oo xD )
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Problems with ATU
Hello together, I know there are already some threads with ATU and problems, but I don’t know exactly where that belongs, so I was on Wednesday at atu (date 13 o’clock), for oil change and cooling liquid exchange, well they said that takes 45 minutes, so I am 14 o’clock again and wonder first of all that the car is still in the workshop, when demand comes out that the water pump expires!!! Since I already thought only of the liquid change can that not be, right??? b then said that you should repair (260€)!!! The next day I come back there the car is not in the workshop but outside and with open hood, asked again what is going on, says the master that he only runs on 3 cylinders and that the cylinder head seal is in the ass!!! then he wanted to click on me that this costs so about 1000€ and that you are not at all responsible for it!!! Now my question what should I do, it can not be there s I put the car completely in order and with almost a completely scrapped motor now it is possible??? Does someone have a tip for me like for example: a expert or someone who just proves that the car was destroyed at ATU??? I hope you can help me
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Tyre repair with patching fungus
Hi all, I drove a little nail into my rear wheel some time ago, as a result of which there was constant air loss already after short distances. Since the tyres are not very old, I decided to go to the workshop of my trust (since more than 10 years) before spending money on new tyres. “You don’t need a new tire, we will fix it immediately.” Said, done. The repair lasted a maximum of 10 minutes and the tire was patched with a “pilt”. The air pressure on all 4 tires was checked. Cost point 16 EUR. “Your tire is now fully functional again, you can easily drive up to 200 km/h with it.” At home I looked at the whole thing more closely. For me this repair with the fungus looks somehow very unprofessional. Instead of the nail it looks like I was driving into a blue chewing gum, and that’s how this mass feels. Now my question: Does someone have experience with the can I trust the workshop if they tell me that the tyre is fully functional again? I drive to 80% city and country, but if I’m on the highway I don’t want to take any risk, especially since the affected tyre sits on the rear axle, which will not go well with a tyre pitcher or the like.
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Mazda 3 Hatchback 2022 Underbody sealing
Hello, the new car has been my new companion for a few weeks and I am satisfied with everything so far. According to the manufacturer and the Internet, today’s new cars are equipped with an effective underbody seal from the factory. Is that actually so, what is your experience and opinion on the subject? I don’t want to see a flight rust or the like, should you have the underbody sealed again? Greeting
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Conti EcoContact 6 on Panda Cross 4×4 – Constant plates
Moin, we have had a Fiat Panda Cross 4×4 with Conti EcoContact 6 175/65R15H 84H (series tyres) for about a 3/4 year. We live in rural areas and have about 600m dirt road to the house. The dirt road is easy to drive with a normal car. The Panda now has for the sixth time (!) a plate. As far as I can remember, the plates are mostly (if not always) front. The cracks (times 0.5 cm, times up to 2 cm) are always in the running grooves. Stones or stony ground. Our second car is a VW up with Bridgestone 185/50R16 81H and here we have never had problems for 5 years. From this I conclude that it must have to deal with the tires of the Panda. Does anyone have an idea what I can do there? Probably other tires, but which? Higher load index? Reinforced? Panda problem? Other idea? Thanks and LG Georg
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205/50R15 86H Vredestein Quatrac for Hyundai Coupé with fast driving, experiences?
Moin, since both tire sets are through and I probably drive for the next 4 years to 85% city traffic (about 10,000 km/year), I wanted to try all-year tires. I drove last summer still with the cheap winter tires, that was already bad borderline when it rained, because you had to with a maximum of 10 km/h around the curve, better less so that the car does not knock out. If you drive with those times highway in rain you can forget faster than 120, because then it already often schlin Hope that it will definitely be a bit better in summer with good all-year tyres than with winter tyres? XD Then they are already bought… 😛 Thank you!
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Which tyre size to 7,5Jx17
Hi, I would like to buy new rims on which the tyre sizes 205/45R17 215/45R17 225/45R17 are allowed. The 225er costs about 10€ less per tire, but in the report I have to produce the conditions K1c The wheel cover on axle 1 is to be produced by exhibiting the front apron and the fender or by mounting permanently fixed body parts in the range 30° before to 50° behind wheel center. The dimensions of the tyre (1.04 times the nominal width of the tyre) are covered in the above mentioned area. K2b The wheel cover on axle 2 is to be manufactured by exhibiting the rear apron and fender or by mounting permanently fixed body parts in the range 0° to 50° behind the centre of the wheel. The entire width of the wheel/tire combination must be, taking into account the maximum possible operating dimensions of the tyre (1.04 times the nominal width of the tyre), in the above mentioned Bereic K6g On axle 2, the fixing flap of the rear apron is to be shortened by 5 mm at the transition to the wheelhouse cut-out edge or to bend the same measure to the rear/top. K8c On axle 2, the wheelhouse cut-out edges are to be widened by 5 mm in the range 200 mm before to 100 mm behind wheel centre. Therefore, my question, pay off the 40€ less or make K6g and K8c (K1c and K2b must always) more problems. Thanks for the answers (and sorry for the long post).