MOTOR-TALK

Blog

  • need gaaaaanz urgently help……

    I hope the one or the other can help me here. I drive a clio a, originally a 1.2 in it but in the course of his life he got a 1.4 in it (but before my time). he did everything else problems but the engine ran well. now, after 1 1/2 months of driving, he wants net more. so net right. I have the following problem: the car starts well, runs quietly in the stand. however, if I drive it “warm” (about 10min) he starts to buck. he takes k a gas more. I go on the clutch and give it a full gas, he takes it net and the motor shakes like sow. I drive it and let it continue in the empty run, he runs out of me with animally low speeds. but mostly I turn it off myself when it is so banging. I can start it again without further ado and usually he runs in the stand also super calm. I go on the gas several times, he bucks again and doesn’t take it right. that’s the problem. now I come to the list of parts di e I have already replaced: distributor cap distributor finger ignition cable ignition coil air filter ignition plugs I can not see a cable break, the power supply of the gasoline pump is ok. and everything I could measure is also ok. throttle valve looks good…. I don’t know any other advice anymore. except pulse generator or gasoline filter but do the problems only when it is warm and driven? I want to give up my treasure net. I have it straight first over the tüv b ekommen. also financially a new car is not in it. please help me! I really don’t know any more! lg desiree

  • Need information about the Renault mode!

    Hello together! If a short question…. would possibly buy me a Renault mode Privilège luxury 1.5 dCi. He currently has 58000 km and 86 hp and is 5 years old. Cost point would be currently about 8000 €. The Renault handheld would make me the great service for free as well as 100 € less. According to the ÖAMTC the car is worth 9200 € on sale?!? How satisfied with your mode? Have you already had expensive repetitions? One hears of every time that a brand is not good, because of whatever. I was told among other things the Renault engines break down quite quickly?! Do you drive with the car even longer distances and if so it drives quite pleasantly? How far can you get in about with a tank (45 l?! The consumption is stated quite differently, supposedly he needs overland only 4.5 l?!? Is a little bit or not? Of course depends on the driving method, but I say on the average 120 km/h on the highway then you get this value ? Thank you very much!!! Lg Aranis

  • Windscreen wiper Clio 3

    With my Clio 3 GT Bj. 2009 the windscreen wipers do not work high enough, is that only with me? If you don’t pay attention, then you scratch the hood edge. There is actually no way to counteract this, now in winter it is absolutely not left out that you damage the hood, nice for every dealer who should take such a car in payment, he has a standard Macke to press the price. Besides the already known “mistake” with the radio “Zu Le ise” and the simply too high consumption annoys me, the Renault only partially ready or is able to change something. Drive for 3 years still a Megane CC and that, except for at 300000 KM worn rear brake discs, so far without further complaints. Renault has given kulantlichlich 250€ for exchange, but only on request. In spite of everything I will not increase any more Renault even if the dealer sets tried to eliminate all the stains immediately, I have never been treated like this before, some people said they didn’t know anything about it, but they were mostly referred back to the dealer, who, however, is unlikely to receive any support from Renault, as stated at Ford, is driving a Ford Fiesta Diesel, everything is much more customer-friendly. I had no problems with repairing faults at Ford for years anyway.

  • Clio B – worth repair yet ?

    Hello! Since last week Wednesday my Clio B Bj 1998 stands still. While driving the brakes have blocked the rear, now the car has been towed and brought to the workshop. Yesterday then the terrifying diagnosis…. The brakes have to be made new in the back, front both springs are broken, the exhaust is torn out of the bracket, some axle cuffs have to be replaced (brake is already oil smeared in front..) Toothbelts are unfortunately also not sure when this e I’m sorry if that sounds so lapidar, but I’m not a technician and I’m not a man either. The car has 1650000 km down and has to go to the TÜV in August. According to the mechanic, the repair costs 1500 euros. (without TÜV) He offered me that I could sell the car so klaputt, because he has someone who would have interest, for 1100-1200 euros. I have no idea what to do now. ?( Repataur? Ve rkaufen? I would be very grateful about tips and advice

  • Selling or repairing

    Hi, data about the vehicle: Mazda 3 BK 1.6 Gasoline Active 2007 air conditioning automatic parking aid retrofitted defective beeps almost always 117000km running power 3 previous owners For about 3 years I have probably had sides damage allegedly from the bike Has been partially made. Technology is so good. If I read here what can go wrong. All this has my not but brakes+ liquid needs new oil tank leaks free workshop wants 100€ working costs clutch pedal at motor from and also on qwitscht but is still good total ca 800€ incl. clutch if not even more outside scratched and various damages lackaplatzer bumper loose Hard rust except small points stone blows residual value ca. 220€ by we buy your car probably on site few hundred euros comparable ca 3300€ by dealers who are probably better from the optics and they get even new tüv What do you say what I should do with it? Lg Hans

  • Purchase advice Mazda 3 BK – 1.6 – EZ 2009

    Good evening, Currently we have a Opel Astra G as 2nd WAGEN DER unfortunately worry with recurring defective thermostat and oil consumption have to look for a successor after 18 years of age. Now it is to become for the first time a Korean/Japanese, because we hear only good of. We have run an offer for a used Mazda 3 from 2009 with 30,000 km. First owner, retired vehicle all documents available and verifiable. Machine is 1.6 with 105 hp in the grey mettaliclack. Au equipment exclusive with step tail with seating, xeon light, parkemsor rear, climate automatic, trailer coupling removable, and much more TÜV HU BIS 04 – 2022 UNFALLFREE From private PRICE SOLL VB 6400 EURO. What is the reliability of the BK model? Is rust still current in 2009? What are the typical flaws in the bk, what do I have to pay attention to during the test drive? Is the price appropriate?

  • Mazda 3 Fastback 2019 – Infotainment and general questions

    Hello, I’m interested in buying a Mazda 3 Fastback. At the moment I’m still swarming strongly between the Mazda 3 and the new Seat Leon. What I like about the Mazda is the design. Especially the Fastback very pretty. Which convinces me less compared to the Seat Leon is the infotainment system. The touchscreen and the connection of Android car seems to me to be better at the Seat. If you already have a Mazda I would have the following questions: 1. How do you like the car allg emein? 2. Does the infotainment system actually have DAB or DAB+? Because the documents always only talk about DAB. The plus is not mentioned. 3. How does the operation of Android Auto / Apple Car without touch work? Can you just use it, or is it difficult to switch between the apps. 4. Can you use the functions of Mazda and Android at the same time? So can I use the Navi from Mazda and play music from Spotify at the same time? Or the other way around Goo use gle Maps and listen to music on the radio at the same time? Thank you in advance!

  • Behavior of i-stop / automatic transmission

    Hello, I can’t explain the behavior of the i-stop system. It doesn’t display the engine at every traffic light stop, and that’s not related to a still cold engine, but happens, or does not happen, even at a long operating temperature. But what’s really annoying is that when the i-stop system waits before a red traffic light phase, the engine suddenly starts up again inexplicably, even though the pressure on the brake pedal has not changed. Since the whole thing is also connected with a small push forward, it provides every time for a small scaresecond and a further increased pressure on the brake pedal. However, the last has no effect on the system, the engine then continues to run.

  • Omega A 2,6i – Clutch rear bearings

    Hello, friends! For 65,000 km already, what’s going on in my backlog when the engine or the gearbox are really hot. There’s no trouble with the dome. Total power is 150,000 km. An acquaintance thinks that he would have driven so 300,000 km without any problems? Who knows what’s going on and how critical can that be or become? As soon as you easily put your foot on the pedal, the sound stops. Do you have to change the backlog? Or is there a Look forward to your advice, heinzbbg.

  • Fix the cooler?

    Hello! Had to find out today that my cooler is not very dense anymore. And it has a very thin (hair) crack in the top of the plastic (or whatever material it is). What do you think – can you fix it somehow? Glue or something? And if so, how or with what? Has anyone ever done this successfully? Must save at the moment, and there a new cooler doesn’t fit so well in the budget. Thanks for all the hints! Greeting Matze