This morning, the SLK 230 brought my girlfriend to Mercedes. The disc didn’t close properly. It didn’t go into the seal, but outside the seal. Thought the men of Mercedes could fix the disc again. Daimler’s seriveman later said to my girlfriend that it could also be due for a new disc; but he called it before. It came as it had to come: He called me friend earlier; something was about the SK 230. They had to do everything new – invoice 340 euros. Of course they had not asked before! You wanted to show us the broken parts this evening. I now have a thick neck, because they can tell me a lot. The disk itself was not broken. what can they have repaired/changed for 340 euros – however -?! Thought that was only a matter of setting the disk – and now such a rech This evening I will tell them something, but I don’t want to show up there completely unprepared. Therefore my question: what could have been so bad about the window/door that justifies such a bill? Thank you for quick help!
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Purchase advice I20 Trend 1.2 84PS
Hello, I am currently looking for a new car and came across an i20 (GB). Vehicle data are as follows: Hyundai i20 Trend blue 1.2 First registration: 2014 KM Stand: 79,000 Power: 62kW / 84PS HU: up to 05/2022 Special equipment: LM rims 6×16, metallic paint, plus package (whatever plus package is ) Price: 850€ Since I am an absolute layman in cars I wanted to ask what I should be paying attention to when viewing tomorrow, whether the price is justified is and whether in your opinion the car does not have already too many kilometers on the hump. After all, the guarantee is already over since the car is older than 5 years old. Thank you already in advance for the answers
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Climate performance GB FL rather weak! Blower Footroom very weak!
Hello. Maybe someone can help me here… would like to drive to the dealer for nothing. Compared to the predecessor PBT or an Opel Corsa D, the cooling performance seems very weak. Cools though, but rather cool than cold. I measure the cooling temperature tomorrow. Or is this a known weak point of the i20 GB? I also find that the blower barely reaches the driver’s footroom. Despite the highest level, only a weak train. Was also much stronger with the predecessor and Corsa! Is Does anyone notice this at GB II? Or should I really drive to the dealer? PS: After almost 6 months I will have an interim inspection (offer Hyundai for free). Here I could address these unusuals. Thanks
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ABS Error
Hello dear forum. I’m facing a problem again and don’t know what to do. The vehicle is a Hyundai I10 from a well-known one. The vehicle is a Hyundai I10 built in 2015. Problem is that my friend has hit the road and then he has to brake hard because of the front man. Shortly afterwards ABS and ESP went on. Now I have sat on the car with the laptop. Reading shows that the ABS sensor in the rear Right is constantly standing at 21 kmh even if the car is standing. When I drive I get back left and on the right no signal. Bzw. Right 21 KMh. Since I didn’t really get into the error memory only live data could see I can see that the valves change the status on/off not available What I’ve done up to now: 1. Back right always 21 KMH stands I installed a new ABS sensor there. Unfortunately without success. At first was zero as soon as I started running like 21 KMh. 2. Cable checked for passage I didn’t take a short circuit when I took the plug off at the block. 3. ABS block Without success , error is smoothed as it is and the block still shows this status. 4. Read out during the ride. Right side 21 KMh, left side 0 KMH. 5. Backups changed tested. Also in the engine compartment. ABS block is not reachable even when I pull the fuse. Can both sensors be broken at the same time? Measuring with ABS block it shows clean 12 volts at the back of the plug of the sensors. Since the error is now on the right side also with the new sensor understands I don’t think so. Back left no signal could be ABS sensor but I don’t want to buy another one until the basic problem isn’t found. Since these bikes have ABS combi, unfortunately, they are very expensive. Visual inspection of the harness in the engine compartment does not seem to point out a mad bite. I just have no idea. Has there ever been such a thing before? Is there a cross point maybe a mass point on the car of the shit I can’t imagine that both ABS sensor I’m going to break the back because I have a strong brake, and that’s what the right side always shows 21 KMh with a new sensor. I’m grateful for more ideas or test stories without spending any more money.
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W220 Summer opening function ?
Hello everyone, there would be a small problem with my “summer opening” of windows and sunroof. This always worked correctly: standing in front of driver’s door (side), thumbs open and hold. Windows, sunroof up completely up, driver’s seat cooling level 3. Yesterday stop not ! Windows and sunroof about 10cm up and stop. Seat cooling level 3 ok. I then drove all windows and sunroof each in all ending positions and tried repeatedly. [against the W220 dementia ] Nix, always only 10cm down/up. The BA also gives no explanation (or I didn’t understand ) Would someone have an explanation and thankfully a help to it ? With thanks in advance and on a bit (bish?) [a little?] CoolingGruetzi Miteinand
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560 SEL after the volume divider change runs engine bad !!
Hello…my 560 SEL wobbled…I checked everything…finally it was the crowd divider…which I also changed along with the earring (seat underneath )…also everything dense and reasonable. So.. and now he jumps badly…you have to orgle…sus…run he does..but somehow stupid…so…how do I set the now…turning at the screw is sentimental…I had the today at the tester…the master meant…3 degrees…after exhaust values he should be so adjusted…??… he I don’t trust the dog and turn to you..:-)….what else could it be??…defence villeicht also re-set ??. Greetings to all..
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Brake caliper fixed?
Hello together, on my twingo the front brakes are grinding on both sides. I disassembled the brake and cleaned everything thoroughly. I also disassembled the brake piston. The piston is flash-blank and both the seal and the cuff are undamaged. I cleaned the guide bolts thoroughly and greased them. They run clean as I see it. I replaced the coverings and the discs. I also changed the sealing ring in the brake piston socket. But if ic h strong brake, grinds the brake again. Have the feeling that, despite everything, the piston does not open far enough. What could be the cause and what can I do? Do you have ideas? Would I totally appreciate any advice! ?? Thank you in advance ??
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Oil loss on camshaft adjuster
Hello , my contribution to the much quoted topic: My car: SLK 200 Year of manufacture 2001, 128000km, stapled; about 4 weeks ago the motor lamp lights up, finding: Lambda probe defective. Exchange, costs: around 300€. Now 4 weeks later lamp lights up again, error: again the Lambda probe. Probe can be extended, finding: oil to probe. After the complete diagnosis it is now clear that the cam adjuster is leaking. With the full program: Cable tree+ control unit must be exchanged. Costs: v This work has been done so far at MB. I asked for it at a free workshop today, but have not yet received an offer of costs. They only let us see that the control unit could be sent in and cleaned, which would probably minimize the costs. I will continue to report on this matter… Still, one question: Wouldn’t MB have had to examine the current problem at the first exchange of the lamda probe? The problem with I guess I don’t have to count on Kulanz given the age and the mileage of my SLK’s… Greetings The Willibulli
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B4 wheel stuck
I wanted to remove my right front wheel the other day, I turned out all the bolts but the sow didn’t want to take off?! (of course up) I did with a spare wheel, it didn’t work. I turned the wheel bolts back in again. Now I want to change a coupling rod myself tomorrow and the wheel has to go down. how do I get this off without destroying anything? Does anyone have a hint? Greetings