Hey, I’ve got a car that I’d like to sell. So it’s an Audi 80 / Type 89 / 1.8l / automatic / Built. 1987 about 92,000 Tkm run at 80,000 km of gears and spark plugs new at 50,000 km of braking system rear new. Condition. 1++ So Absolut TIP TOP. Lack 1+ inside 1+http://www.bilder-speicher.de/07070412227741.vollbild.html What can you ask for ?
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Day running light with normal headlights Ibiza SC
Hello, we drive next to the Seat Ibiza SC also a Saab 9-5. At Saab it is common that the light is also off with the ignition switched off. So I always drive with light and done. At the Seat when you do this you run risk to forget the light, because it does not automatically lock off but now with a limited beep signal indicates the light when you turn off the vehicle. The workshop now says there is a daytime running light, which actually the stand light is and then with light switch OFF is always on when the ignition is on. With normal light that would not work – however m.W: driving with standlight in D is not allowed. Does anyone know if the Saab solution is also to be done at Seat somehow? Greeting Steve
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Change control chain
@ linear cycle when I change the control chain to twist the camshafts so that the pistons do not come against the valves, I would have to be able to pull the new chain with the old one The crankshaft again put on marking the camshafts as well as insert the chain riveted tensioners and control everything thats all?
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Buy used Renault Megane for 25tkm/year
Hello all, I am currently looking for a second car with which I want to drive in future 2x to 3x weekly 250km work path (50% highway, 50% highway). At then about 25tkm a year makes definitely a diesel sense, I think. Now I have looked for a bit with the following criteria (from BJ 2011, to 90tkm, from 90hp, to 9000 EUR) and found among other things two offers for Renault Megane: once a saloon 1.5 liter with 106hp, BJ 2011 with 76tkm and once a Grandtourer 1.5 dCi with 110hp, BJ 2012 with 89tkm. If I want to drive the cars then about 6 years, they would be at 240 to 250tkm. How are the experiences with the Megane? Does that power this mileage without any problems? I recently had an Audi A4 1.9 TDI, which was still completely problem-free at 250tkm. And a second question would be: Are there any expensive standard repairs such as timing belt changes or the like? At which mileage would they be?
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From the exhaust comes white smoke
My dear; I need urgent help.. last week I picked up the car from the workshop any joints were replaced + pickerl was made. Now my problem while driving I had white clouds + power drop already right after the start. test half in the stand gave gas and it sounds like howls. No oil or water loss .. Is my turboloader defective?
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Cylinder head gasket capput and oil in the cooling circuit
Good morning, I was in the workshop yesterday with my Renault Megane Grandtour built in 2006 due to oil loss, after cleaning you started the car and already came down a lot of oil out. On the bill it says: engine and transmission strongly oiled Result: cylinder head seal defect (pistons were rinsed) a lot of oil in the cooling circuit cylinder 3- piston has bulges (weared) The workshop would be estimated for repair at least 3000€, but can also quickly m Do you have experience with it and can you tell me if I have to scrap the car now or is there anything else to save?
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How likely is a crack in the block after overheating of the engine?
Hello guys, how likely is it that when the engine was running fast and overheating the block was torn and not “only” the ZKD burned through? My car was now standing in the workshop since October, after I had the box on the highway boiled empty. Diagnosis of the towper – “ZKD durch”. Then I got all the necessary parts and brought them into the workshop. ZKD, stretch screws, WaPu, timing belts and all the stuff. Now the cart cooks after 1.. 2 minutes always Now, of course, I am thinking about whether I should sell the pile as a hobby box or take even more money into my hand. If the block has a crack, then I would not get around a new engine as well as the reassembly of the new parts like WaPu and timing belts. If a crack in the block is very untrue, then almost “only” a warped head remains, which could be changed comparatively cheaply. The car only got new HU and new brakes in front shortly before the defect, the climate has been filled and otherwise also a lot has been renewed. Would now be a pity. Would be grateful for experiences, tips and theses.
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As soon as I stop and check approx. 3 sec. car in idle -> injection
Hello, my car Megane 2 Bjhr. 6/2006 1.9 dci 131 PS 333/AFC 172Tkm, now has a problem! I start the car and when I start the car directly (without the car getting into idle), everything is top. It pulls perfectly, runs normally calmly. so everything is normal. As soon as I stop and run about 3 sec. the car in idle (800 rpm) appears in the display “Injection check and the maintenance key lights” to which the car goes into the emergency running program(Lower U/min m Ax 120 km/h)! I start the car after 3 min. new the error message is gone and it drives back normal as long as I don’t get in the idle (light gas nozzle at the traffic light etc.) prevents that! That’s crazy. What can that be? Topics: Engine, RENAULT Megane Details about the vehicle: Kombi, built in 2006, 131 hp, 1870 ccm, diesel, manual transmission, 172000 km
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I20 GB: DPF regenerates much too often!
Moin people, with my I20 GB (2015, 110tkm) with the small diesel engine (1,1l) I am pretty sure that this much too frequently regenerates… I drive to 95% only highway and there almost always 120km/h with the cruise control. So actually the ideal driving profile for a well-running regeneration and also for a rather rare event… However, my DPF on the 200km BAB track feels on average 1-2 times, more than 2 times per track/ride. I feel this then at the Momen This then increases by approx. 2-3,5l, so that it then consumes BC about 7-8l/100km. Since it normally consumes at 120km/h approx. 4.5l/100km and since we have here in the north of Germany (HH+Nds.) almost always flat highways, I am really very sure. This regeneration lasts then also about 25-50km (normally I think). As far as I am informed, however, the regeneration should take place rather all 500km (with a lot of short distance rather earlier, at Langstrec). It’s all 100km for me. Does anyone else have this problem? How can I check how often my DPF really regenerates? I can’t let it read out at the car dealership because I only drive on Sundays… :huh:
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Hyundai i20 – Coil Fieps (Radio)
Hello, I have already put this question under a test report, because this topic was also illuminated there. Unfortunately without an answer, so I try it here with my own post. I bought a Hyundai i20 last year (data see profile). I like the car very well, unfortunately I also have a problem. The radio causes a clearly perceptible “spullenfiepen”. I was already there with the dealer, however, this said: “That is normal, would be with every car , I can just turn off the radio / turn on the music”. Noise available as soon as you get in. When the ignition is activated, it is gone as soon as the radio is switched on again. Does any of you have a similar problem? Is there a solution? Thank you! VG