Hi, again a problem: And this is the following: When driving in the city the left rim gets much hotter than the right. Everything is ok on long highways (without brakes). So far I have done: -brake saddle completely overhauled -new discs and coverings – of course I also cleaned the hub properly from rust -new wheel bearing -brake hose is ordered, but since the ventilation nipple-open-and-then-wheel-turning attempt did not bring any change, I don’t think about it But only when I grab the top and bottom of the wheel, left and right shake does not reveal any game. – The new brake disc has a blow, perhaps 1-2mm in the mounted condition What I think: There is something wrong with the wheel hub and or the axle stub. I also remember in the context of how I sometimes sweep off a slippery road in a curve and the road ditch mic What I want to say: The left front wheel certainly got a little more load than usual during the action. What should I do next? Change hub from left to right could bring insights… Does anyone here still have parts: wheel hub and axle stub for transit? Has anyone ever ordered from the transit center? The shipping costs are really awesome…
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Long-term experiences / opinions on Ford Connect
Hello. Since about a 3/4 year I drive a Fiat Doblo natural gas as a business car. Apart from the favorable consumption I can unfortunately find hardly positive on the vehicle. Therefore I now have to sell the vehicle again and possibly to switch back to the Ford warehouse. (Had 3 years a Puma 1.7) Currently I have a 2004 Connect in the eye with long wheelbase and the 1.8 TDCI engine with 90 hp. Are the models recommended or. what for flaws are problems with the model b Ekannt !? I don’t want to experience a fall like in the Doblo again !!! Thanks in advance
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Motor damage Transit Year of manufacture 2007, 2,2 L TDCI Motor 131 hp
Have a camper on transit chassis with 2.2 l TDCI engine, 131 hp. This engine has suffered an engine damage at 35,000 KM in France without notice. At speed 80 km/h with switched on cruise control suddenly no more power. Strong smoke generation from the exhaust. The Ford workshop in France made the following diagnosis after towing there after checking the oil level, which was in order: engine broken! Estimate of 8.200,00 € for the repair was u The RV was transported home by the ADAC and we were brought a rental car to travel home from Germany. I can only report positive about the ADAC. Help for us without end and you had the feeling that you were not alone. Simply class of this ADAC!!! The Fordwerkstatt in our home town expanded the engine after professional diagnosis and disassembled the engine. Hole and crack in a piston. Cause: Probably a defective Inje ktor, where the emphasis is probably on this! Estimate of 8,800.00 € was handed over to us. We were advised not to apply for a certificate, as this is certainly rejected by Ford and if, then only in the amount of max. 10% of the sum. After loud negotiations the costs could be reduced by approx. 1,600.00 €! Great my negotiating skill! Since I felt absolutely pulled over the table by this workshop, I took my camper out of this workshop and d commissioned another Ford workshop with the repair. I can only recommend this car dealership with workshop, because here a proper work was done during the renewal of the engine. The damage picture of the engine is however not a rare at 35,000 KM at Ford. In various forums this event of the engine damage with this engine was described already very often and the pictures of the piston could come from my engine. It is only a pity the Ford here according to the other I was already drawn in advance by the Fordwerkstatt in my home town of this tooth. My conclusion about Ford is therefore not exactly good. Ford – they do what?
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Connect battery charging cable for CTEK charger permanently – where?
Hello together, since I own a battery charger from CTEK, which I like to hang on to the car on the WE times (in winter), I wanted to connect an adapter cable to the battery so that I don’t have to work with the crocodile terminals. I was now a bit “overburdened” : on the battery sits a black box, into which several cables go, or from which several cables come out. Does anyone have an idea how to get this box? I now have the adapter cable as shown in the photos. What do you think: Is that all right? So far I have always connected the adapter cables directly to the battery and that has always worked very well. But I can’t access the actual plus pole of the Seat battery. VG, Thilo
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Seat Ibiza 1.0 MPI recommended ?
A friend of mine has an Ibiza (Bj. 2006 with 1.4 and 75 hp, almost 120 TKM). Now she has told the Seat workshop that she has to put a lot into the old ones, which is no longer worth it (dental belts, brakes). They have offered her a new 1.0 MPI Sol, still the old model. Costs with payment of the old then 10000 Euro. Such one is this (only as example):https://www.autoscout24.de/…eb36-f85c-4b13-a630-e9f6b0bfc8cc?… 1. Is the price good? 2. How is the engine – comparable mi d her 1.4 with 75 hp? Test drive has not yet been done. 3. What could you ask for for the old one if you sold it privately? 1500 euros I would say already (has climate and in the sport variant) I recommended it to her – she finds the nicer, but has concerns with cars from F. But he would have a few more hp and more torque.https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…2de8-f92b-43c3-a20c-a075abb4c341?… Maybe she will look at both of them, while she probably looks at the Seat dealer from Erfa. she bought her present one there too. What is your assessment? Is there nothing wrong with Ibiza?
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1.9 TDI ATD clutch defective?
Hi guys, I was on the highway yesterday on the way at one time had it stunk full thought my son would have shit in his pants at once I realized what was wrong with the car because he was stuttering Anfing, I then stopped on the emergency lane and there steamed it out in the front when I wanted to drive off the clutch he only trembled. When my brother then came then he drove back so mine, got off the highway and drove home with 50-60 he has trembled over 60 strong. Wa could it be that my clutch has said goodbye? Or the whole gearbox? From the engine I would exclude it that runs quietly. Km stand about 166000. Engine is an ATD with 100 hp.
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Outside temperature spins and car gets drunk
Good morning and a happy new year together. I have a problem with a drinking Cordoba Vario 6K GP01 (EZ 12/2000), 1.4L, 60PS engine ID AUD. For some time the outside temperature indicator spins. Here it was yesterday 2°C warm and the indicator wanted to convince me of 18.5°C. In the summer it happens at 20°C that the temperature indicator shows 3.5°C with *. The indicator basically does not matter, but the car has a consumption of about 13-15L/100km. Since it is from me and my Par However, this has not been noticed directly in short distance traffic. Is the outside temperature also passed on to the MSG and could the high consumption possibly be caused by a defective encoder, a partly “ice-cold, fat” injection? The display of the cooling water temperature “fits”, but if here also a double encoder, as e.g. with my A6 is installed, the display can possibly only be half the truth. I’m looking forward to hearing from VG Björn.
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VDU gear oil changes and other workshop intervals
Hello, I have a question about the upcoming inspection. I own the Seat Ibiza Cupra Built 2013. It has a Dsg transmission, and now has 69,000 km on it. The workshop says I have to change the transmission oil now, is that right with the KM? I heard without the transmission oil flushing is the change of the Dsg oil unnecessary, is that right? Another question is whether each workshop can and how this works and whether you can control it at all, whether the actual oil The maintenance booklet says something about DSG gas change, how does something like that work and when can it be done? Now my last question, when is the change of teeth coming up, at which mileage or after how many years of use? Thank me for the answers and really appreciate it.
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Ibiza 6L Facelift 1.4 75 HP -> clacking or knocking ?
Hello people, I drive a Seat Ibiza 6L BJ. 2006 with the 1.-4 75hp engine… The vehicle has only 82,000 KM down and there is already something clacking in the engine room. This noise only occurs when idle or accelerating.. not if you have the gear in it and let yourself roll. When the engine is cold you hear the clacking more clearly.. as soon as the engine is warm you have to listen a little more because it becomes quieter… the clacking will be faster with the speed! So now to my question… What should ic h do it now? Should I go to Seat and have the car checked? I didn’t have to deport in front of the car now… What could that be? By the way, the car is fully stocked at Seat and only 5W30 oil came in! Today I wanted to try 10w40 from Liqui Moly… What do you think?
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Mirror no longer in correct position
In a small accident my passenger mirror was torn short from the anchor. But not deformed or kpl away. I tried to put it back in the right position. I managed – almost – to get it. I tried to put the fixing of the screw hole, which was slightly bent, in the opposite direction, as the blow was on the mirror. Only it still stands a little too deep and you can also see it no longer “sats” on the door. See picture Is there a way to get it back on its own? A repair shop wants € 150.- and that’s not worth it, because the mirror can be adjusted quite normally. But it can’t be driven as high as the driver’s mirror anymore. So it sits a little too deep. All functions, incl. folding, are given. So only a beauty error.