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  • Mutual visual blockage when driving into intersections and suggestion to do so

    Situation: Crossroad or estuary with main road, without traffic lights. I come from the lower side road and have to grant an entrance/priority, namely (1.) the traffic on the main road and possibly accompanying cycle paths, (2.) when turning left the traffic from the opposite side road, (3.) when turning off also pedestrians who just cross the main road. This only works if I have free view in all directions. So far, so clear. The two vehicles in front of each other are now in a position to stand in front and wait at the same time, if you are standing on the left, you can no longer look unhindered to the right, and if you are standing on the right, don’t go unhindered to the left. The two vehicles in front of each other are hindering each other, and as a result they often don’t go any faster. as if the vehicles were waiting one-lane in the side road. My suggestion: Both lanes give each other free view, similar to the zipper principle. Example: I drive towards the intersection, turn left and so arrange myself to the left. On the right there is already a straight driver. I am not driving all the way up to the front, but am deliberately standing 2–3 m backwards, so that the other one has free view to the left. Only when he is away, I drive until to the line of vision and orient myself. Give your opinion on this. I think, since this procedure is useful, it would be good if it were to prevail as a rule. Apart from the fact that if § 1(2) StVO were to be interpreted accordingly, there could even be a legal obligation not to block the view of the person who is already at the forefront. I would also like to have your opinion on this.

  • Car purchase/(fraud)?

    Hello together, the following happened to me,I bought a car privately Bezw. a Smart..;-) Number of previous owners 1,check booklet maintained, everything sounded good,the seat heating is a fault with the passenger but should be quickly fixed by a fuse,it happened recently, later it turned out that the heating already with the previous owner defect, Yes.. there it goes, at the registration office I have on the new vehicle letter(the old one was invalid) that I am now the 4 owner.. The complete checkbook which he sent to me later with the post was not complete at all, instead up to 98,000 only up to 35,000. I tried to contact the seller but in vain, suddenly left for 6 weeks to Pakistan. After 2000 km the smart went out on the highway, towed to the workshop and then the great horror,total damage..Car bought for 3000, repair costs 3700,- Euro.. The seller refuses to pay a cent as I today from the arbitration office. I don’t know what to do, the lawyer would also cost me money, how are my chances? I have 2 witnesses who can confirm his statements,1 hand and checkheft complete..nothing was right about it..is dealing with an ADAC adjournment (blue) for car sales.I hope you can help me, am in despair… Greeting Timi2

  • How deep can I lower my MX5?

    I had a dream last year and bought a MX5 NB. I would like to put a lot of money and work into the car. I would like to buy a chassis for the car next, because it is still way too high for me. What would be the minimum height here in Germany or Schleswig-Holstein. It should be as low as possible, however, so that the TÜV takes it off. I added another picture. That would be the height I would like to have for the car.

  • Stuttering/rubbing when turning up – and the ignition on the 1.6 is innocent!

    Hi, everybody! I have a problem: My Roadster has a trigger/buckler/stutter when speeding up. They go up to about 3,000 – 3,500 rpm, and then it feels like it’s switching to another mode and then it’s back to normal. If it’s cold, then the problem is smaller – as soon as it’s at operating temperature, it gets worse. The whole problem started after I replaced the valve cover seal. And now the kicker: It’s not the ignition system! D he candles and cables are new (candle exchange has brought a short-term improvement – until it was again at temperature), and the coils are also fine. I didn’t have any clues for wrong air either. So I gave up and brought it to the workshop. There they found nothing – just one suspicion: the air mass meter. Do you think that’s realistic?

  • Search used Mazda MX5

    Hello, I’m looking for a used Mazda MX5. It should have a mileage of up to 150,000 km and not cost more than 4000 €. The dark colors are rather colorless but no need. I come from the Stuttgart area and therefore prefer to search in the “closer” environment (up to 160 km) If you have something suitable simply report.

  • Noise after timing belt replacement NA 90 hp

    Tach, after a long break I report with a problem mentioned here several times with different MX5, which I have not found any solution for me in other forums. I have now made a change of timing belt and the above mentioned “sleep noises” are now also present with me. Years ago I had been through this and after that was nothing… all nice. Here again all steps to the current exchange / problem: – timing belt including rolls renewed by IL (Spannu ng only controlled by spring, or according to manual specifications again and for me i.o.) – new clamping spring original Mazda – water pump IL newly mounted – Simmerring crankshaft + camshafts renewed After assembly everything purrs as it should be until the engine is warm (cooling water and oil).. Then the “slip noise” begins.. Next step, straps Lima, servo and wapu off, Arregate do not run along.. Noise still unchanged. Thus only the tooth strap remains as a fault for me. . Next step, new clamping and deflection rollers installed by SKF and all attachments / cladding parts controlled on grinding tracks, the belts are tightened slightly differently.. NO change, When the engine is cold, everything is fine, when it is warm the noise starts again. It gets louder with increasing speed and I would say so from 2500-3000 Umdr. away or just goes down with the side noises.. Since this problem has already been discussed several times, is determined after all a I hope to say hello, Torsten.

  • MX5 – Meaningful idea?

    Dear MX5 – Sympathizers, I spontaneously had a test drive last week with a second-hand 2018 MX-5 Skyactiv-G Sport (160ps), although I was at Mazda because of the new Mazda 3. Well what should I say, I was baff…my girlfriend also, she got a little bit of a gag in the little ones. Amazingly, she found him very pleasant to drive and believes me that is not easy. She normally drives nothing longer, wider and lower than a Nissan Mikra…(She is in the last few days.) 4 years did not drive 1x my BMW 320d (F30) because it has “fear” of it…well…) Now some facts: My questions: Most of all I head over the parking on the road. How does the permanent sun exposure affect, how is it with Vogelkot if I do not drive for 2-3 days. What about snow or rain? Does it make sense to buy a vehicle like this in our situation? The financing will be no problem as it will be max. 5% of our net salary and also a ETW we can call our own. Children only in 2-3 years! Please no further questions about this. Your Bluedo

  • Type of purchase MX 5 NB(110 ps)

    Hello since I have long been looking for a sporty car with low maintenance costs I have come across the MX 5. Whether maintenance costs in themselves (insurance, usage, tax) or repairability, everything seems to be given. Driving fun I think also comes up with the smaller engine. Now to my “headache”. Unfortunately the MX 5 seems to have enormous rust problems. When I hear that most fenders/swings are through and it sounds more like lotto to you without rust. I think it is realistic to calculate 1000€ for welding work with its own preparation. To this purchase price 2500-300€. What do you think? isn’t it so dramatic? Would also be interesting as the spare parts supply is, so price-wise. MFG

  • Speedometer lighting

    AARRRGG gets full of the crisis. In the last few days, nothing at all works out, what I am doing. Yesterday I changed the two white pears in the speedometer above for 2 blue LEDs Twice when I turned on the light the fuse 6 out. Ok, I thought, then you let it be, with the blue LEDs. Zack, a new fuse in, and the two white pears. And now this is where I don’t see through. When I switched on the light, no pear burned. I took out the right pear, the left pear burned, but rather weak, and the blue bulb also weak.The left pear out, the same. Birn burns only weak, and the main light also. Have tried out 6 or 7 pears, one could have been broken, but always the same effect.Otherwise everything burns normally. Oil, handbrake, turn signal ect. And the fuses 6 and 7 are also whole. I understand this. before, everything was ok. LED ́s in, fuse flat. LED ́s out, new fuse and white pear in, and then something like that. What else could it be? Would be in the dark without tacho lighting. Please help. I must have blown out the pears 5 or 6 times, and turned in again. Then I tried it with other pears, always the same result. I just unscrewed the tacho up for a short time and pulled it forward for a short time. But as I said, just unscrewed up, and not u I was out again. Did the tacho once completely unscrewed. Slightly pulled forward. Then I wobbled at the back of the plug, and at the wire harness. Happened nothing. I at least let a pear in now, which I see at least a bit in the evening.I just noticed, as soon as I pull the light horn, the tacho lighting goes off. Does anything happen with the main light? Can a ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic ic h mir villeicht a relay shot down, from the main beam villeicht, because I had put in the wrong fuse on the 2nd painting instead of 15 ne 20s. Just very briefly, and again exchanged. I don’t know anymore.

  • Which oil is used on Kia Rio 1.0 T-GDI 120Ps?

    Hello, have a Kia Rio 1.0 T-GDI 120 Ps and soon the 1st inspection is on. Which oil would you recommend to me? Would that take it with you for inspection. I found the following:Motor oil For tips and comments I would be grateful. Someone already experience how to react to the Kia workshops if you bring your own oil? Thank you in advance!