Hey, I have a little problem with my GT, hope you can help me. Have the bike only recently! A few days ago I drove with it for the first time and suddenly out of the blue it goes out (by stopping at the traffic lights). Well, it can happen, but it didn’t start again. After about 10 minutes. and a few meters to go home she ran again, but not for long. In the place she went out again simply, but this is when (easy) acceleration. Dar I checked the Vetilspiel, which also did not really fit. Yesterday city traffic, after 7 kilometers again the same game. After 15 min. she jumped again unheard of. I also looked at the candles, but they look completely normal, are also the standard candles DR 8… Now the question is what it’s like!? Whether the engine got hot or not can’t say badly. I hope you can help me!!!? Thanks in advance in greeting Kevin
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Care Unilack black
It’s about a BMW E46 Compact in Uni Schwarz II. On the bonnet are some scratches and a stain of burnt-in bird droppings. I’ve read various reports about car maintenance here, but I’m not really smart about what to do. I have the following plans: – Have a vehicle thoroughly cleaned with a conditioner – then I want to seal the then clean vehicle What do I use for this? LG (which) or the rose wax of 3M??? it’s about a long stability, because the gloss of a unilace is probably not so high anyway… Would be grateful if I could get some opinions on my approach!
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Dl 650 V current, does not start, loud metallic hitting
Good morning love community I drive a V Strom Dl650, built in 2007 with about 55tkm. It stood 1.5 years relatively much, I drove when it came up only 2,000km in time. I had it standing in the garden on the house wall and covered. Anyway I wanted to start it and it sounds like the starter is very sluggish and has trouble turning. If it is then over the “dead point” there is a loud metallic blow, instead of that the engine starts. 2 weeks ago had I did that too, but then she jumped on. I drove half a day and so far everything went. Now I wanted to throw them up and take them to the workshop. However, this is so loud that I hardly dare to try again. Such a crap. Does anyone have an idea what’s going on? Best regards, Heribert40k
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Buy Hayabusa with high mileage?
Hello together, I wanted to ask if you can dare to buy a Hayabusa with a relatively high mileage! With a high mileage I mean 50,000km vll. even 60,000km. I know it also depends on how it was driven!But what else does it look like with the Hayabusa with the durability? The engine is not very small with 1300ccm and therefore I could imagine, with good maintenance it would have to live for a long time?! Mfg BB
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Percentages not recognized in insurance changes!
Hello guys, I have a problem with which you might be able to help me, I suspect somewhere a misunderstanding: I had an accident 6 years ago with a car (Kadett Flieheck 4door 90PS) which was insured with my “home insurance”, the insurance family had SF 17 and ran to 35%. Shortly after that I changed the vehicle, on a box van (Kadett Combo 54PS) which I could not insure with my insurance because they did not insure trucks. This fin g then again with SF1 and ran on 40%, for 1 year even on 35, why always? Anyway, I have sold it again now and am with a car (Passat Variant 90PS) again with my actual insurance, with the other insurance was the stand SF6 and 40%, but my current contract stands on SF6 with 55%. My father who actually regulates this with the insurances, since it also runs on mother’s name, let itself be fed with the reason that it is a UN case. It can’t be that I paid 150€ less for a “truck” which is usually well above a Passat combi … In addition, we get a bunch of Rabbatte with our current insurance, since almost everything is insured with them and my parents are in the public service, Vattern even as an official. Before I can get a job, I’m not sure if I can get a job. I wanted to deal with the insurance again I wanted to ask here if all this has its correctness, somewhere there must have occurred an error. If I had known that I would have stayed with the other insurance or had bought me a box van again. Something like that can really annoy you, especially because as a student you are dependent on every euro. Greeting gap
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V70 TDI (D5252) Bad start behavior.
Hello community! I really don’t have a Volvo V70TDI D5252. (Audi 5Zyl.) which has already 510000km down. If the engine still brings massive power, and sounds mechanically very good. Oil consumption is not measurable. 1. The only peculiarities that the engine has is a bad start over +8°C (where definitely not glowing) or warm engine, which stands for half an hour. In winter at -20°C the old diesel always starts up on strike. (then it glows well ahead) 2. When accelerating the engine almost always makes a proper black cloud. Consumption is in cut at 6.8L diesel on 100km What I have tested and done so far: battery 75ah 760A EAN glow plugs renews starter breaks clean new smeared off. Top All 5 nozzle sticks with new inserts, and on the nozzle test bench again? however, the error of the diesel filter has been renewed with Wapu, and tension roller.
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Who wants to go? France Cevennen/Grands Causses 19.6. – 27.6.
No more travel restrictions from 15.6.2020. Idyllic holiday home/pool, guided tours with simple offroad parts. Two-day journey (ü1000km) from Southwest Germany, UN at Grenoble. Sewing. Info via email (PN with email address send)
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Repair service
Hello dear community, I’m thinking about ordering a Model 3 soon. The service leaves, as I have noticed at Tesla to be desired! But maybe I’m just too spoiled by BMW 🙂 now to my question. Service is as good as not available, but what does it look like if I have, for example, a small sheet metal crash? (e.g. fenders pressed in, scratches in the bumper etc.) Logically that you then go to Tesla. How is the spare parts supply? Will this quickly repair or will it take forever? Thank you for your answers Greeting Andreas
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Change brake pads Corolla Verso R1 D-CAT
Hello, can someone give me a guide on how to change the brake pads for my D-CAT, year 06-2006? Would I really appreciate your help. Thank you in advance. versodcat07
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MPI 1.0 Engine idle Compression loss Motor lamp on
Hi people, have the following problem with my arosa:Seat Arosa 1.0 MPI BJ: 10/2000 Engine code: AUC km: 120000 The yellow motor lamp is on now and then! –Then read out the error.ZYLINDER TUN EXHIBITION 3 I had the compression checked. Result: 3 cylinders full compression and one (cylinder3) has only about 60-70% of the compression of the other cylinders. The car runs only idle. However, from approx. 2000-2500 revolutions everything runs normal again. Since anyway an oily Since 3000km was overdue I did a 5w40 instead of the usual 10w40 (which was in it before) So. maybe thought of cylinder head gasket (HORRORschock- bin Studi). wouldn’t then have to leak some oil or cool liquid? The air filter is clean and otherwise I don’t see any oil leak or cold liquid loss. Incidentally, the whole thing started at the same time as the death of my end pot. (I drove around about 1000km with a big hole in the end pot). Endpot is now new. What would be the first possible causes of error? Wouldn’t want to have to remake the valves for 1500 euros without being sure that it’s because of it. Please keep helping me… the car has to last another semester and then I have to find a job before I can treat myself to a new car. Should the worst be assumed in case of compression loss on cylinder 3? *heul* if you need more infos, please let me know quickly. so to speak, live in this forum and eagerly await your opinions.