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  • Purchase interest brand ATV. But which one???

    Hi, everybody! I’ve been dealing with the topic for a while. I didn’t find a meaningful comparison of different devices anywhere. You can find more information about the cheaper China machines than about brand devices. I was thinking about an Atlas 500 / Everest. It seems to be more or less good for the price. But a few slim failures, which I read about in the other forums (wheel lost during the road trip, Kardan solved the problem of I need a 4×4 ATV with single wheel suspension, Diff. front / rear, possibly lockable, reduction, Variomatic (CVT), 400 – 700 cm^3, LOF approval, AHK, winch, or possibility to retrofit it later on. The device should already be large enough to be able to drive reasonably together (place for the feet!). So, basically something like the Atlas 500, but in reasonable design and quality. Speed around the 80 – enough. Power – to di e 40 HP – also. Terrain experience I have plentiful (formerly owned a 110 Defender and kept “specified”. I personally, without really knowing about it, tend more to Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda. Less to the North American models. For the time being because of the price of equipment, parts and quite thin dealer service network. I can already repair some things myself (bin auto technician), but have no workshop. Just a simple garage, even without electricity. What would you recommend me un d which models would be worth considering? The price should already be less than 10 t., gladly also under 8. I thank in advance! Greeting Daniel

  • Quad-purchasing consultancy

    Hi people… I’m thinking about whether I should get a quad… now there’s an offer from sacom quad millestorm atv 200 for 1799,- before I asked the dealer, who said there was a quad from 500€…there I slaged with the ears, because for that you get a really good used motorcycle…so plan rejected…too expensive the 1799,- would be borderline in the budget, but if that part is good, I would invest it…but not more! at ihhhbäägi bts the dinger already from 600€, but that can only be scrapped??? has ever had experiences with the above-mentioned device or heard something before, or can make experiences with cheap and good equipment? would I be happy if I could ever give some tips, because I don’t have any idea about it 🙁 I want to use the part to go for a walk, to take a little ride on forest and hiking trails or to go to the next city, what to buy… trips etc. so pure fun object! ps.: ko mme vom land! only I want to have rest after the purchase before repairs and other problems, which I already have enough with my car! THX

  • Moddac Ltd and Mr. B*y*r…Jongkang Jinling Vehicle 250cc

    Hello, here’s a post on the topic of China Quad. Since I’m going to be under some kind of rush here or I’m going to make a bad speech or damage someone, I’ll just describe the life story of my Quad. To the Quad dealer Modacc Scooter Ltd. in Neuss price 1600€ 250cc NEW VEHICLE!! When I picked up the Quad, I was assured that I would come with the tank filling to the next gas station. After about 500 meters I stopped… tank empty! after about 2km, I stopped again… Mistake in the electronics. after the employees of the company cut the wire harness apart again between them (while small smoke clouds rose up in between, I think short or similar) and had reconnected with insulating tape, I was able to start the trip back to the workshop. After about a week I was able to pick up the quad again. after about 40Km of driving, it was then again v In the meantime, the horn, the start switch and the standlight were out of operation. The tank indicator, which he had allegedly repaired, is still out of function. After a few days, the dealer agreed to take a look at the whole thing at my home. after about an hour and plenty of discussions, he ensured that I could start the engine by short circuit using a screwdriver (I guess at the beginning) if necessary. e. After a few days I took the quad, MIT FULL TANK, back to the dealer, where it remained my vacation. When I picked it up I stopped again because the tank was LEER. So I ran to the gas station and filled my fortunately brought canister. First of all it went on….After about 15km I stopped again. After some searching, it turned out that the fuel hose had been torn down to the gasifier. After needy patching I then came to action Some time later a lot of me during the ride on that a bike made unusual noises and eated. Conclusion…wheel bearings had disassembled! So…call and at your own expense let it be transported again! If this had happened at higher speeds, it would have become life-threatening. Overall, the quad quality is absolutely inferior and would probably not get a registration before any German tuv. the engine suspension is directly with the frame concealed The exhaust becomes so hot after 2min running engine that you get to sweat in the next stand and I have caught several burns… I write here to prevent others from falling into it and getting unhappy. I personally will never buy or drive a cheap China plant again. I am finally healed!!! At present it is going to be a court trial so that he his bucket and I get my money back. Greetings Badquad

  • Barossa Cheetha 250 suitable as a beginner?

    Hello @ all, I’m a quad-newer and have a friend who has his Barossa Cheetha 250 for sale. The machine is about 4 years old, about 2500 km on it and was driven only in nice weather and also not in the field. This model has 2 cylinders with 2 carburetor, no reverse gear, front a drum brake and is air/oil cooled. As accessory he has a luggage carrier with topkase and a nerve bar. Is this quad suitable as a beginner? I will mainly drive with it to work (ca. 8 The first time I drove on a lap on the farm and I felt like driving a car the first time… The car is starting to run, when it does work, stutterts… So an absolute beginner… How is the machine so for my purposes? Rather stable and reliable, or vulnerable and not recommended. What would be a reasonable price for this quay? d? MfG frodu149

  • Can you weld the cast under the engine (alu?)?

    Hello, everything is done with me now, get the next super message now, my uncle has had a slide and is upside down on the curb. Cooler etc everything in order, the shock bar has some scratches but one makes him crazy, when jacking up it has torn a part away from the cast on the right cross handlebar at the front axle, where the cross handlebar is attached, near it has torn away a piece ( 2cm wide one cm high). But only at the back, the cross handlebar is at the front The place where it is screwed is not damaged. It is now forcing itself whether it is dangerous, whether it is necessary to change it or if it is possible to weld it. Because the whole front part hangs on it. Is there a lot of pressure on it, so that it can even tear? On the side where it is ok, it is not particularly massive, therefore it is not sure. Go to it and try it today. to take a picture.

  • W221 now for under 40,000€ !

    So I know now that I’m going to buy the current W221 this year! Now S350 is already available for well under 40,000€. S500 already for just over 40,000€ and under 100,000€! What do you think it’s recommended to buy one of the first ones? Are there bigger problems with the W221 series? The S350 is too weak for me on the chest, which I had to “test” by my friend for 3 days. Has anyone ever driven the S450? Is he with my S500 from the Or is the S500 the optimal engine of the S-Class again? Greetings

  • Need help with buying a model

    Hello guys, I’m completely new here and need some information and tips because of new car purchase. I thought for a long time what I bought exactly, I thought about a 530i or 540i first, but it has pulled me some way to the MB. I haven’t had any experience with MB only had a few meals with TAXI, so I would like to ask everything (I’ve already read a lot in the forum myself) Would like to buy a S500 (possibly S320) Bj ca 2000-2001. I don’t actually have that much money and don’t make much money either. so much, but I just want to buy a car with which I can drive next 10-12 years (even more) and not worry about looking around for a new car. S500 I have already seen from about 12.000-14.000.-, same for S320. I would like to convert the S500 to gas (someone already has experiences with it)Because about 16-18 liters of petrol in the city, resist me already too much, but with gas prices it is optimal for me. S500 in price class 12 to 14.500.- Euro (is also my From Bj2000, however, almost all km were between 180 and 250TKM, is it not too much? How long does the engine last? And gearbox? (generally) I don’t drive so much, about 20-30TKM a year, so the MB will still be able to withstand 300TKM? Without having to repair big and put money in? Which wear parts have reached their limit with the KM? How can I see if the gearbox or engine are not the best? We recommend to bring the car to TUV or Dekra before buying it. or better directly to MB? At the KM stood, which parts I have to change, coming to me in the next years? and cost? What costs approx. insurance HP and TK? (have 50%) Do the S500 and S320 have the same equipment (technically) or is the 500 better than 320 (not motor)? For the beginning is actually everything, so be very grateful for help.

  • When buying a used S-Class W220 320CDI

    Hi have a general question. Is there a possibility for Mercedes that the KM stand, inspection dates, possible pre-damage etc. can be obtained from the PC in every branch office? Or is the whole thing dependent on the branch office and there is no federal database? What can I clarify before the purchase still everything in order not to make a wrong purchase?

  • S 280 W116

    I’m thinking about getting me that. Needs advice. S 280 Bj. 76. W116 Mimosengelb, 130,000 km, round round absolutely error-free and accident-free except 2 fist-sized rust holes below the A-pillar behind the wheel. Furthermore, the thing has absolute basic equipment without extras. Preisvorstellung 2400 EUR. Wasn’t a few years driven and slumbered in heated workshop. Is that what? Does the price fit? How is the model traded? I will drive with red 07 number. Thank you

  • strong jerk when switching from p to r

    hello, yesterday I noticed the following: was with the baker, I switched the car to p, let the engine continue running, then back into the car and when switching to r came a heavy jerk. and the lever was difficult to press when switching from p to r. you also heard a “crack” when switching. is that normal?? am tomorrow anyway at mb, would like to know before that is already normal so that I can complain about it and am also sure that it is not normal (habe mb-europa-ga rantie and the car acquired before 4 weeks about) mfg and all still a nice weekend