Hello, there are problems that you solve yourself and there are things that you discuss in advance. Location: -regular dull knocking, no valve clapping. With the help of the ignition gun, we could see that the camshaft wheel deviates from the mark after every 4th or 5th revolution by about a tooth width on both sides. -with an engine stethoscope we could hear the knock more clearly from the 1st piston – Based on the micro camera on the piston surface of the 3rd and 4th piston a bad too Seeing but blank spot -Zahntriebel: ohne Aufschrift (no name)? Is that crucial? First of all 2 videos, maybe there are good ideas, photos follow!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7R7DMDg0iA&feature=youtu.behttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xiE25yaKwU&feature=youtu.be Thanks already Panic
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Calibra still squirts after repairing the cylinder head seal
Hello here in the forum; the week broke my cylinder head gasket. Was just on the way to work and then suddenly a huge smoke cloud behind me and loss of performance. I drove then still the approx. 2km of 6km further and then put it at the workshop (not a car workshop, but my work place). In the evening I then filled up the cooling water and then slowly drove back home, where a large part of the cooling water was gone again. During the test drive (after approx. 4km) he started to smoke again when he had driven warm. I got the creep and quickly looked back home and after the cooling water. But to my surprise everything was still there. Can it be that while I was driving with defective cylinder head gasket a part of the cooling water ran into the exhaust and now evaporated again when it comes to operating temperature. have had the same problem or is the error different? Drive the 2.0i with 115hp, C20NE, 200000km run by Built 97. I am grateful for every tip, Greeting Stefan
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Mercedes Sprinter 906 311CDI 2008 Rear light, brake light on one side
Moin moin, has the following problem on the Mercedes Benz Sprinter 906 2.2L 109 PS Bj 2008. From the start of the brake, after letting go of the brake pedals, the front left the dipped light falls off and the rear left the brake light. When starting without the brake, everything works, as well as the brake light during the first actuation. Side marking light and turn signals work. AHK not available. Does anyone perhaps have a circuit diagram from the power line light control? All bulbs are new, battery new, brake light switch new, rear lights new, warning flash switch (center console control unit) also new, fuses i.o. Has cost me 500 EU so far, partly the components were already due… have worked for months, suddenly Hab the rear lights completely changed left and right among each other. Unfortunately also the same game. Can not lie on the rear lights. as soon as I have the (F1 – 25) fuse no. 18 from 7.5 A to 10 A replace, the dipped-beam at the front left again works. The brake light remains permanent after the first actuation. Any conjectures, mass? Would be grateful for any help
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Winter experiences!
Hi people Something “funny” happened to me today…I drove up a road on which there was still snow, but split was skilfully scattered, which therefore came up with a little swing no problem, because at the close end of the snowy slope I could spot a parking lot which lay parallel to the road, one should rather call it a path. So I drove up with swing, but did not get into the gap with a blow, and there was the problem. I was half in the gap….back were It was still about 1 m to the nä. car and forward…tja there was the problem, no more went forward, because in the gap was not scattered and therefore snow. Great! To turn I need another meter more to the back, well and forward….you know, went nothing. What to do? Help far and wide none (forest rim), girlfriend shimmering heart attack, since we slipped back (God is not thanks to the car behind us) was still a meter of space. I cursed over rear drive and the stupid idea here h Then came the idea: floor mats out, under the wheel, slightly accelerated, BINGO! Could take out the meter to be able to turn. I was bright and relieved, but the floor mat first had to grumble out of the snow about 7 meters behind us. Do you also have such “amusing” experiences? Just post! Greetings, Tobi
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Scary night with my Audi behind me..:(
Hello, I drive an Audi 80 Coupe, 5 cylinders, BJ. 86. I had a used KAT installed for the TÜV this year, because the other one was probably empty cleared.! Last night I was traveling home with my Audi and he ran worse and worse. He had detonators and ran at last only 40 kmH. I drove him with the last force to our front door. As I got out I only saw that it smelled everywhere and very burned. Under the car glowed from cat to rear silencer a lles. Over the axle it has ignited and it has started to burn. We could delete this with water after some time again. Then you could see that in the trunk already the tub was sunk and already melted away where behind the tank is. Where still about 20 liters of reserve was in the tank. Then it was still a while ago and then laid down. I had of course on the other end of the phone already the fire department because I thought that this also to the ex plosion can lead. Well, all night no eye to get.! Has anyone ever had such a thing .? Please for answers and tips.! Greetings Nicole
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Problems with refueling Opel GT
Hi guys, when I refuel, it doesn’t start right afterwards (it lasts about 30 s until it starts properly). Problem only occurs directly after refueling. After that everyone is like that, so if nothing had been. Motor lamp still glows. The following I have already done: 1. Error read out -> lt. code is the Kraffstoff pressure sensor broken 2. Am to Opel -> told me the same and a new sensor installed 3. Problem was not fixed 4. So again to Opel -they said m 5. Problem again not eliminated 6. again to Opel – this time they told me may be due to the software, but they have to ask directly at Opel one gets in touch with me. That’s the current state. Am really desperate. Someone an idea? What else can that be? MfG
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ABK doesn’t work the way he’s supposed to. What can it be?
Hello everyone! I still have a problem with my Audi 80 Avant 2,0 l ABK 115ps Bj:94 with approx. 140tkm. The engine runs quite unevenly. The speeds always fluctuate in the stationary gas. Then he often does not take the gas properly. He then jerks a bit and then catches himself again. And if you then for a long time the drezahl at high halt it goes away again What can that be? I hope you can help me Oh yes have let the error memory out of it leave no error. h very high consumption is currently about 13-15 liters on 100km spark plugs are ok. Oil change is pending. After setting off it smells extremly after exhaust no matter how far the travelled distance is.
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Alternator change or not????
Hello ! So make me my thoughts, what next could give up the mind and have come so on my alternator. Got the car now for 2 years. Did I happen at the cadet then and was not exactly pleasant to come to work in the morning because the battery is sucked empty. Well, my question, should one exchange such parts for new ones for precaution or is that not necessary and one waits until the first signs occur??? LG Nadine
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Accident and the Smarti consequences 🙁
Hello Smartfriends, unfortunately my beauty is the days a bit unsavory along a guardrail “ratched” because she wanted to avoid a rabbit… The fender is in the back right, scratched is fenders front right, door panel in the middle and tridion up to the tank cover Some things I can polish, if necessary even stick the fender, but favorite would be new or used parts for small money …It’s a Smart 450 from 07/2002 in grey metallic (Baygrey) Well now agree e Questions: 1) Do you have a source where I can get cheap used or new body panels? 2) Or does one of you have parts? 3) What could I use for gluing? 4) And the most important – where do I get the right paint for spraying and paint pen? Is it in the smart center? Is this even possible to paint on the plastic with spray can Is there a color number for BayGrey? Thanks in advance to the round.
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Oil change
Hello together, have now my first oil change with my cdi Bj. 2003 behind me. Sucking out the oil from the measuring rod is really an “unoptimal” solution. When looking at the engine from below I mean that it is possible to perform an oil change over the outlet from the oil filter! has anyone ever tried something like this? I mean that it is the lowest point of the motor. if you jack up the smart front a little, then it would have to be so possible? Greetings hanne