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Hello, look desperately for the oil pressure sensor.. Please describe exactly where it is 🙂 best with picture – Lg.

Hello everyone ! Ride a Laguna III GT built in 5/2011, have in the front these chrome trims, where now the facelifted Laguna 2014 the day running lights are integrated. I asked Renault if they can be retrofitted. Was promptly called back the next day. The thing is you can buy these lights (price he didn’t tell me :-)) however you can’t retrofit them, because you have to go over the control unit and that wouldn’t work or so much According to Renault, the decorative strip of the facelifted should fit on my Laguna. So my question is a loan. Why can’t you connect the new lights to the existing line of the current daytime running light? Thanks for your help or suggestions. PS: I’m disappointed there are little things that would make pleasure but Renault makes a big deal of it and complicates everything.

Hey together I tried it already in the Laguna forum only unfortunately there comes no answer so my brum brum is now a good week in the workshop known problem corruption please look for the next lagoon workshop on bla bla injection ramp completely new was replaced problem was still not gone then it was found that the gasoline high pressure pump is defective was replaced today he makes the following problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P-_eLlhJ2Y then meant m a workshop manager that this part (red overturn) would not be on the new injection ramp and he has taken over the old (pressure regulator) picture Can it lie on the old pressure regulator because the one was taken over by the old one

Hello together, my timing belt change is on the line and I have a special question. How important is the engine identification for the timing belt set? When I look for the key number, I get quite a few offers. Some write the identification, others only from year of construction… Are there really so big differences here? Thank you for your support

Hello, have a Laguna Grandtour Bj.97, 2,0 with 114hp and approx. 240000km down. Got the problem that I can get the gears hard in, especially now that it has become colder. Must explain briefly since I noticed this: In July 2014 I got the cuff from the differential where the drive comes out leaking and the oil came out with engine on the beam (if you kick into the engine compartment right side) which was already long Porous and it has probably for some time already some transmission I then had to tow it and to the workshop. They renewed the cuff and filled up oil about 2 liters but 75W -90. So mixed. After that everything was ok until now where it has become cooler there I got the gears hard when I am then danger they went in again without problems. I changed the gear oil now on the past Wednesday the original ELF oil which is in the magazine there is no more but the supposedly better successor version from ELF TRANSELF NFP 75W80. So old oil (were also no metal chips in the oil, at least I didn’t see anything it had but slightly foamed in the bowl) out, new oil in the book stands 3.1 liters but only 3 liters fit in then I didn’t drive with it until today, but had run it warm in the stand and switched on in the stand with engine, without big problems. We had the car in front up-bocked so he just like with normal chassis stand because he in the front approx. 6 0mm lower is. Have 1 day later and today before driving In the stand without engine to the switching tried (cold oil) there the gears went in without problems. I then started and then I got the gears hardly any more into it, only with pressure. I then drove and after a few meters went in again but still a little rough and after a few km it worked again normal. It also happens to me (or maybe I imagine) that if I stop motor from then Moto r on, which goes in 1 gear with a beating noise. Had in between the car parked about 1 hour, engine on then started again car was still warm 1 gear, 2, 3 he etc. went in without any problems. What can this still be the so difficult in the cold go in. Thanks in advance. Greetings.