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Hello dear Mazda driver, I am about to become one of you. I have to decide between the 165 hp petrol (Nakama) and the 150 hp diesel (Nakama). Actually, I had already set myself on the petrol due to my driving performance (10.000 km). Now, however, I have calculated the total cost (leasing rate including inspections + insurance + car tax) and found that the diesel is about 5 € cheaper per month. This is not the world now, but also k The diesel engine was a bit more fun than the petrol engine during the test drive. Now ask yourself: What would you advise me to do? I drive on the motorway regularly longer (about 1 times a week), but unfortunately I also drive several times a week in the morning to the day care center (about 1 km), and depending on the schedule, this sometimes remains the only ride… Is that too bad for the diesel engine? Short distance is not a moto r well, I already know that, but the route is so unfavorable that there are no meaningful alternatives. Your opinion? Thank you very much! Greetings tigran9

Hello to each other, with our ́96er 626 GV (combi) the right dipped-beam only works in connection with switched on main-beam. That seems curious to me. The plug connection (I assume it is the one with the 3 plugs) I already pulled apart and sprayed in with plenty of W40. I noticed that the plug for the main-beam is broken – but still gets contact. The fuses are fine. Who knows advice? In the meantime I try a used A second topic is that the wiper water pump at the front doesn’t work at all anymore. I can’t get to the part without removing the servo pump cables. I’m afraid of that. Also here the safety is in order. Who has a clue how/where I can measure it, or how I can expand it? Thanks and always good ride and a lot of success at the necessary screwdrivers Wolfgang (Blaubeer)

Hello together, Would like to buy me a Mazda 6 GJ 2.2 Diesel 175 automatic. I’ve already read a lot. The only thing that makes me worry about is the oil that some already had oil to consume possible engine damage. Driving profile. Every day 100km highway. In principle annual driving profile 95 percent highway of the rest of the country/city. I picked one out and was already on site testing everything looks so good.http://suche.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Bek omme Him for 23500 incl. inspection! Would you advise me or rather not? Greetings Michael

Hi all, have a mazda 626 GF year of construction 99 there constantly lights up the ABS light, TCS light and handbrake light, Here in the forum I looked over the search function for the error cause there is listed that the ABS sensors are to blame. How can I reliably find out if these really are? How is the exchange of their sensors designed? And why does the handbrake light light light light up? edit: have found this here that you should measure the ABS sensors:http://ww w.motor-talk.de/…/…ems-warnleuchte-leucht-t2240400.html Question how do I best measure the sensor? or where do I put the device? Sounds stupidly asked now, but rather stupidly asked than stupidly traded 😀

Greetings, the engine runs very unevenly and shakes in the stationary gas. The speed varies irregularly between 200-900 revolutions. I had installed a new head gasket, in addition curvature seal and those of the intake tube. The Lambda probes, spark plugs and cables are replaced, no improvement. 2 cans brake cleaner I have now emptied in the whole engine compartment, but it showed no effect. A tiny small hair crack I found in the valve lid. I made it with glue, doc h unfortunately this doesn’t seem to be quite dense yet but that doesn’t matter in my opinion even if it discreetly contributes to it. I used to be able to start without giving gas, now it goes out immediately when trying, because it simply does not hold the 850 revolutions. I will soon install the temperature sensor (switch) for the warm-flow controller because I destroyed the current one and check the ignition time. The candle picture was dark golden brown. Could a changed valve play a otherwise the car is well in shot to the surface rust, while driving there are no problems. Mountain from 202 kmh.

I have been driving a Mazda 626 GF 1.8 l 90 hp Bj 99 (before Facelift) for a few weeks, with proven only 106 tkm, reasonably maintained. Now the engine sometimes runs out. I have no idea why, maybe someone can give a hint, because no other thread exactly pastes. But in detail: The engine always runs out on the first kilometer, i.e. in the first 5 minutes. The error is not reproducible, it happens only about every 5th drive. It happens both in idle (in standing position) The engine starts again and again immediately, when driving in partial load / when accelerating, you can only notice it as a short but violent jerking, after which it runs normally. There are no other symptoms (neither bad jump-on, nor restless idle, nor swallowing, jerking or similar). I think it is due to a component of the motor electrics. A reading of the error memory at Mazda has only one error in the I have already repaired the immobilizer, but there were two cold soldering points in the control unit which had led to a bad jump. According to ecu, the ECUs repair, the WFS control unit has only one influence when starting, after which it can be theoretically disconnected, i.e. it cannot be involved in a dropout during the ride, i.e. the error is not stored in the error memory. On the basis of the read threads I type on the Hall Sensor or the ignition distributor, a defective one on the ignition lock I think is unlikely, why should it always occur in the first 5 minutes. And still, I don’t know if it has a relevance: first of all, the TCS light is always on when the engine goes out. And if the going out happens during the ride, the immobilizer always registers after going out / jerking without turning the ignition key: light on, light off, as is the case with normal starting. Thank you for tips.