Good afternoon Citroën specialists. I have a problem with my C5 2.2 hydroactive 3 the chassis is very hard at the front, unlike the rear, have already renewed two pressure storages in front and the 3 ball + solenoid valve unfortunately no improvement, besides I have to mention that the owner has previously renewed the two shock absorbers (hydraulic cylinders).
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Swap bolts
Hello, say hello So according to TÜV my wheel bolts (or actually they are standing bolts or?) are too short. The wheel nuts go up only 5 turns instead of the required 7. So replace standing bolts, so far no problem, 1 I could hit out on the car (could the others get out like that). But have a bad feeling in the built-in condition to knock around so I wanted to remove the recording in which the bolts are stuck. So the splint out and now I get the mother nic Ht solved (marked on the picture, btw. What is this mother’s name? Is this the wheel hub nut?) I have something stuck on the existing bolts so that the recording does not turn further while I solve the mother however a great effort would be necessary. And therefore I don’t want to tear anything off or anything like that, I thought to ask you how to solve the mother correctly or whether more violence would be the solution. Bzw. How does it look to make it tight again? Greetings and thanks in advance
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Damage tire flank for rental car – Worst-case costs?
Moin, I touched the curb with an Opel Astra K at 30 km/h with the front wheel. A piece of rubber is missing in the tire flank. See my photo. The damage is about 3mm deep. Wire was not to be seen or felt. The car was rented, damage I reported, and my question: If the landlord now changes both front tyres, what would that cost me in the worst case? So rather 200, 300 or 500 €? The Astra had a speedometer up to 270 km/h. Probably it was the 1.6 Turbo, the 235 k m/h driving. Since I don’t have a car of my own, I miss experience. Thank you very much.
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The choice between plague and cholera (China Böller tires)
Hi, I need new winter tires next year. Since the summer tires only last 2 seasons, I have thought about getting new rims + all year round tires. The alternative would be to buy summer + winter tires again of course. The problem is: The only approved tyre size for summer tires on my vehicle gives me the following product selection: Achilles ATR-K Economist Nankang Ultra Sport NS-2 Nankang NS-20 Nankang Sportnex NS-2R Linglong Green-Max Duraturn Mozzo S Toyo Proxes TR1 (very! expensive) The Bridgestone Potenza summer tires I’ve driven so far are no longer in production and probably no longer come back. As can be seen from the list, this is a cross-section of the Asian tyre culture + very expensive Toyo tires, which according to the test are not so good either. Does the Motor-Talk Reifen&Felgen Forum think that it would be smarter, new rims + all-year tires from renominated manufacturers (you can choose from Goodyear, Vredestein, Hankook) to buy, or to bite in the sour apple, and to try out a Linglong tire? The tires have to maintain their 7 years expected life and must not turn into lubricating soap from the 2nd season, having something to consider. However, all-year tires are also not so 100% what for the curve robber in summer, right?
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Ultra Wheels UA9 Tüv Problems
Hello together, I drive a Golf 7 GTD and have Ultra Wheels UA9 19 inch ET 45 mounted with 225/35 tires. Otherwise nothing has changed on the vehicle. Now the problem was that I needed new TÜV. I enclosed the test report for the rims, because I assumed that the rims can be entered on the vehicle without any problems. The examiner probably disagreed because somehow the fenders for these rims would have to be widened. Is it a mystery why no chts grinds a little bit or something like that and there is nothing about it. Has anyone ever had similar experiences or maybe another expert opinion than is provided on the Ultra Wheels page ? To an answer I would be very grateful Many greetings
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Rim damage
Hello, today I noticed the damage to the rim on the back left of my car. A few weeks ago I definitely wasn’t there. Yesterday I was still driving and I didn’t notice anything. Can’t explain at all how the damage should have been done, because the damage is partly not within the highest points of the rim. In addition, I always park only with the right side to the curb. Is there someone coming up against me? Or looks After a typical self-inflicted damage?Sometimes there was so white stuff on the rim (sometimes you can see in the picture)? Is that from the rim? Or did someone try to overdo something? Would I be very pleased about your experience, since I have no idea of cars.
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I could puke…. Fiat Seicento 1,1L HEEEELP
I get my Fiat Seicento 1.1L Hobby Year 2000 with 112TKM just no longer to run. What I tested: Ignition: All 4 spark plugs lightning hose after the gasoline filter removed….ignition turned on, fuel he blows out through the B-filter Sprit also comes out of the inlet hose at the front………no MPI but the older injection with the orange nozzle on top of it before the “clamp” I also had outside. When I pour bissel sprite into the “crack cap” under the nozzle n tippe…….is it running for a few seconds funnyly Can it be that it is no longer running because I pulled the relays in the interior when the ignition is switched on? And is there a relay which is responsible for the injection? Have 3 blacks (equivalent values) inside A Blue One Red. immobilizer? Does it have a camshaft sensor? or crankshaft sensor? —————————————————————————————————————- Request for help…… I’ve been standing in front of the little one for hours and already have back pain screwing around and standing